Miami Spice Soup


Chilled Kohlrabi Soup, Chevre Custard, Beet Sable’, Olives, Anise

The most recent addition to our Miami Spice menu is a chilled soup made from kohlrabi (a member of the cabbage family). Kohlrabi comes in different colors but the interiors or the meat is always white. Here the soup is poured tableside just to the bottom of the sable so the cooke is still visible

Components include:

Kohlrabi Soup

Chevre Custard, half and half, milk steeped with herbs and garlic, chevre, agar, gelatin

Dehydrated Kalamata olive soil and emulsion (lemon and olive oil)

Orange segment

Beet Sable’, beet powder, vanilla, orange zest, anise seed, sugar, flour

Chervil and tarragon

Olive Oil


Will’s Wagyu

A7 Wagyu Ribeye, Parsley, Pomme Fondant, Yuzu Kosho Jus

Will Crandall is one of the Chefs on our team at Azul, Ironically he moved to Miami from Chicago at almost the same time as I did and he lived two blocks away from me in downtown Chicago but we had never met before. Anyway this wagyu is graded A7 for its high quality marbling and after cleaning the whole ribeye the fat is boiled down and used to sous vide each portion with herbs and aromatics. When each steak is fired it is removed from the water bath and seared heavily one one side. The vegetable components are classic with a modern approach (fyi Will stays true to Escoffier techniques and proper French cuisine with a modern vision), parsley is presented in several ways as well as garlic.

The Beef jus is a veal and chicken stock base reinforced with beef meat, and finished with yuzu juice and yuzu kosho. Yuzu kosho literally means yuzu and chili, this is a spicy paste of yuzu rind, yuzu juice, and chili peppers. It is definitely spicy and should be used in moderation, classically it is a sashimi garnish.

Components Include:

Sous Vide A7 Wagyu Ribeye

Pomme Fondant, Russet potato, cooked in clarified butter, garlic, and herbs

Parsley Root tips, and puree

Garlic Confit, Garlic Chips

Parsley Puree, on the plate

Pink Parsley, Parsley leaves, Arugula

Yuzu Kosho Beef Jus


Summer Harvest

Leaves, Branches, Roots, Flowers, Borsin, Arugula Emulsion

This is our “mixed green salad”, it is currently not on the menu but a new fall version will be in the upcoming weeks after the end of Miami Spice. The lettuces are a mix from Chefs Gardens; Gem, Red Oak, Bibb, etc. They are lightly dressed with a sherry vinaigrette, and the quenelle in the middle of the plate is a house made borsin cheese with fine herbs.

Components include:

Baby Gem Lettuces

Sherry Vinaigrette, Olive Oil, grapeseed oil, with peppercorns, fennel seeds, dijon, toasted garlic and shallots, port wine reduction, and honey

Watermelon radish rings, cherry bomb radish, french breakfast radish, micro turnips

Micro carrots

Shaved Fennel and heirloom carrots

Whole Chervil

Brioche Croutons

Arugula Puree

Borsin and Fine Herb Quenelle


Hirame

Here in Miami they have what they call Miami Spice. In most cities there is a restaurant week but in Miami it is two months of restaurant week. It is a good way to attract customers in the tourist “off season”. The unfortunate part is the menu has to be three courses of three choices of apps, entrees, and desserts for only $35. At Azul we have appetizers that nearly reach this price for just the one plate. We want to make the best food possible and will not sacrifice quality just because of the menu.

Today Chef Joel had some Japanese Hirame (Fluke in English) flown in. This is a beautiful fish straight from the ocean packed in ice. This fish had gone through the technique know as Ikejime. Ikejime is where the fish is cut in the medulla oblongata in the head, then a cut in the tail is made to draw out the blood while immersed in salt water. As soon as the blood is out then a thin needle is carefully inserted into the spinal cavity to slow the process of rigor mortis. The slow the rigor is developed it is said to create a compound called ATP, this develops umami in the flesh.

This dish I have been thinking about and writing notes on for a few weeks. The one that is photoed here is for the Spice menu but it is only a fraction of what I imagine doing if it was a complete appetizer. I hope when Miami Spice is finished at the end of the month I can transition it into a permanent menu item.

Hirame Sashimi, Concorde Grape Ponzu, Shiso, Orach, Crispy Noodle

Components include:

Hirame Sashimi, seasoned with a yuzu emulsion and lime zest

Concorde Grape Ponzu Sphere, fresh Concorde grape juice, white shoyu, roasted citrus juice, mirin, and yuzu

Grapefruit cells in olive oil

Pickled Concorde Grapes

Crispy cellophane noodles, seasoned with aleppo pepper, and dried shiso

Yuzu, mirin, soy, gelee’s

Chive tips

Orach spinach leaves

Micro green and purple shiso

Julienne Watermelon radish


Three Chefs One Dish

Lemon Verbena Scented Turbot, Gremolata, Artichokes, Sunflower

This dish was a combination of Joel, Jacob, and I. Joel came up with the flavor combos, and Jake and I worked on the techniques, then we all came together with the plating (which is continuously being tweaked). The fish is gently steamed over a tea of lemon verbena and aromatics. We are all proud of the clean and complex flavors this dish has as well as the elegance.

Components Include:

Steamed Turbot

Sunflower Seed Gremolata, chives, parsley, lemon verbena, brazil nuts, preserved lemon, lemon zest, sherry vinegar

Artichoke/Sunchoke barigoule Puree

Baby Artichoke and Sunchoke Confit

Preserved Meyer Lemon Puree

Toasted Sunflower Seed Oil Powder

Garden Salad, Several Lettuces, lemon vin, d’ espellette, many flowers (borage, tamarind, ginger, garlic, coriander), verbena leaves

Artichoke Chips, with gold flake


Bouche

Carbonara Custard . Egg Yolk Caramel . Smoked Lava Salt

This was the amuse that I made a few days ago. Caramel is made with sugar, herbs, coriander and other aromatics, brought to blonde caramel and poured over organic egg yolks and allowed to thicken. The custard is made from a cream base with; bacon, herbs, pepper, garlic, marsala. It is then set with kappa carrageenan directly onto the plate. To finish is a little Hawaiian smoked lava salt


Utilization

One thing that I am truly passionate about is utilizing every part of each plant or animal that comes into my kitchen. Not out of the nessecity of being “green” but to be truly honest it is to show technique. How many ways can I utilize this ingredient, how many textures, flavors, visuals can this ingredient provide. That is one of the many reasons I like this dish. This dish is from the culinary imagination of the Chef de Cuisine Joel Huff. When I asked him what his inspiration for the dish was he answered it exactly how I expected. “Well, there are so many awesome tomatoes in california I just wanted to show case them” (He’s a Cali-Boy)

Heirloom Tomato, Panzanella, Burrata Panna Cotta, Basils

Gazpacho H2o

Heirloom Tomato Paste

These are heirloom tomato bricks used on the salad. You cant say Joel doesn’t have knife skills. Notice the scraps in the background on the left and below, we will get to these later.

                                                                                         

 

Salad Components Include:

Several sizes, and types of heirloom tomatoes, raw, dehydrated, marinated

Vinaigrette; Grapeseed and Olive Oil, Sherry Vin, Port Wine Reduction, Toasted garlic and shallots, white peppercorns, fennel seeds, dijon, honey

Burrata Panna Cotta, Fresh Buratta, Buffalo Mozzarella, Half and Half, gelatin, agar

Basils, Thai, Blue African, Sweet, Opal, Buds, Flowers

Flowers

Hydroponic Watercress

Croutons; Brioche blocks, kalamata olive bread crisps

Marinated Boccacini, capers, fine’ herbs, dried chili, lemon rind

Kalamata Olive Emulsion, olive oil, lemon, lime, zest and jus, xantham, tapioca starch

Dehydrated Olive Soil

Agrumato Lemon Oil

Maldon Sea Salt


Now back to the part of Utilization for which this post is named, we do an interrupter or a mid course between the appetizers and entrees. Since we are in Miami it is only right that we do a nice refreshing gazpacho. We did want to make it nice so making a gazpacho water or H2o was necessary.

In order to make the gazpacho we take all of the scraps from the tomato salad and puree them in the blender with these other aromatics (note: when making this you must make sure that you do not over puree other wise microscopic particles of the tomato and vegetables will cloud the juice).

Heirloom Scraps, Red Onion, Peeled and Seeded Cucumbers, Jalapeno, Ginger, Red Bell Pepper, Raw Garlic, Mint, Basil, Cilantro, Lime Zest, Lime Jus, Sherry Vinegar, Honey, Sea Salt

Take all of these components and blend them in the blender. Seasoning each batch with acid and salt. Pour the puree over and cheese cloth lined perforated pan then let drip at room temperature for 3-4 hours. or refrigerate overnight. You should have a gold tinted water when done.

  



Just When you think that you are done Utilizing you have plenty of tomato gazpacho puree leftover inside the cheesecloth once it is done dripping. Then only thing left to do is make tomato paste right. As far as I know everyone makes their own tomato paste! (J/K) After William and I spoke about this opportunity he took full advantage of the idea and executed it perfectly. We use this for our stocks and jus.

Utilize


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